Oh, what a trip! I have been surfing since I was 15 (1975) with a 20 year hiatus to raise the family. Got back to it about 10 years ago.
Never have had a lesson – only learned by watching + trial / error. However, I learned more on this trip in one week that I have in all the years. Just happened to be in the pool for the “paddling” class. Who me? I don’t need no stinking’ paddling class…Had I not been there, probably would not have attended. And WOW, picked up 2 tips and had some other stuff clarified. Really made a difference.
Then in the water with Flash; some of the other folks were in more need of immediate help to catch waves. I hung around the edge and did my thing – having a blast. A couple of tips here and there from Flash and my rides are longer, wave reading and overall understanding of wave riding is much improved. Then on Friday, we were in some mushy beach break at Avellenas. I kept looking down the beach at a break about 1/4 mile away. I asked Flash what it was – “reef break; little Hawaii” was the reply. Can we go? Sure he said. The rest of the group was whipped from the previous day and retreated to the boat. I started paddling up the coast. 15 minutes later I was sitting in clean, big right handers with 2 surfers, 1 SUP guy and a woman in full boogie board mode. Then Flash and another buddy from the group jumped in and we Nailed the our best 10 waves of the week! Flash gave me the vote of confidence and everything from the week came together to hyper jump my surfing to a level I did not know I had. Truly a fresh new experience. Flash has a gift for knowing when to advise and when to lay back. Friendly, and well trained it was a treat to have such a competent leader.
I am already trying to find the next window to come down. This time confidently in the advanced group. Pura Vida!!!
Payton Brown
June 13, 2015
