*A poem I wrote after our venture to Ollie’s. I’ve been coming with my dad to WRSC since 2007.
A pointed swell in my direction
Here comes a wave, no time to reflect
One paddle. Two Paddle. Three Paddle. Drop.
My mind is blank; I’m not my feet
A moving mountain, far from the peak
I see the line emerge before me:
An Oasis admits a desert trek
The walls come quickly, crashing closer
I duck my head and bend my neck
An oceanic eclipse blocks out the sun
‘Yahoo’ echoes through the forest:
My playful dance is done
As I beach, board in hand
Merely a child and father searching, surfing
Living life amidst the sand