
I remember the first time I ever got on a surfboard. It was about 10 years ago on some beach in Byron Bay, Australia. I was three months into a 10-month trip traveling around the world. Since seeing the big, majestic waves in Tahiti and Fiji, I was itching to see if I had what it takes. So when I arrived to the land down under, I promised myself that I would take my first surf lesson. And I did. It was me, an 11-ft monstrosity of some cushioned-top-pseudo-like-surf-boat, and some knee-high waves. I remember lugging my board to ...read post





